For Day 4, we planned to explore the Trinity–Elliston–Bonavista area, starting with the Skerwink Trail. This internationally recognized hike was ranked among the top 35 trails in North America and Europe by Travel & Leisure Magazine (2003). It’s about 5 km long, moderately challenging, and exactly what I picture when I think of a perfect coastal trail. Most of the route follows the rugged coastline, offering ocean views with unique tundra-like vegetation—short trees and hardy evergreens. It even has a rock formation that looks like a clapping giant.
From certain points on the trail, we could spot the charming communities of Port Rexton and Trinity, which became our next stop. Trinity’s harbor has been in use since the 16th century, with the Portuguese explorer Gaspar Corte-Real naming it “Trinity” after arriving on Trinity Sunday in 1501. By the 18th and 19th centuries, it had grown into a major trade hub along Newfoundland’s northeast coast. Today, Trinity is a postcard-perfect town with colorful houses that look straight out of a toy village. It’s compact, too—entirely walkable in just 25 minutes.
After the hike, we were craving ice cream, so we headed to a small local shop perched on a hill with a beautiful view of the town. Just as we got comfortable with our ice cream, the rain started—first as a drizzle, then quickly escalating. We rushed through the rest of Trinity under the rain. But honestly, even in the downpour, I really like this picture-perfect little town.
As the rain gained strength, we drove to our next destination—Elliston. This small town is famous for two things.
First, it holds the title of the Root Cellar Capital of the World. Scattered across the landscape, these food storage structures—built into the hillsides—look like hobbit homes. Many of them are still in use today, as traditional methods used to preserve food.
The second attraction is the Puffin Viewing Site. This spot offers one of the best chances to see puffins up close. From late spring to early summer, thousands of these seabirds nest on the rocks here.
The rain showed no signs of stopping, so we zipped up our rain jackets and headed toward the cliffs. It hard to describe the atmosphere there. A pair of binoculars would have been handy, but even with the naked eye, we could see them—thousands of puffins, sitting, flying, chilling and living their best lives.
The mist and rain actually made it even better. It felt wild. Waves crashing below, birds calling out from all directions, the cliffs disappearing into the fog all combined to create a scene straight out of a movie.
Despite of having a good time we got soaked, tired, and hungry. It was a time to call it a day. So, we drove to Bonavista. Right away, the town felt different. Bigger than any we’d seen so far. It had an industrial feel, with a factory and a more serious vibe. Even Queen Elizabeth II’s visited this place in 1997.
Dinner was in the hotel’s restaurant, which was packed and had live music.
Afterward, I went for a walk.
I wandered the quiet streets, lost in thought, when I spotted a path leading to the ocean. There I found an informational display about a connection between Bonavista and Lisbon, Portugal.
Turns out, back in 1755, Lisbon was hit by one of the most powerful earthquakes in recorded history. It triggered a massive tsunami, so strong that it reached the shores of Newfoundland. Philip Tocque described it in his book:
“The sea retired, and left the bed of the harbour dry for the space of ten minutes, when it again flowed in and rose to an unusual height, overflowing several meadows for about the same space of time as it had retired, and the waters on each side of the cape were greatly agitated.”
Quite interesting and unexpected facts to stumble upon during an evening walk.