On the third day of our trip, we started with breakfast at one of Twillingate’s cozy cafés, where I tried a traditional Newfoundland dish—Touton. These fried bread dough rounds, usually served with molasses or butter, were absolutely delicious but definitely a calorie bomb!
After breakfast, we headed to Crow Head, a small town on the northern part of Twillingate Island. It’s home to the Long Point Lighthouse and several scenic trails. The name “Crow Head” comes from the shape of the land, which is said to resemble a crow’s head.
After a quick stop at the lighthouse, we picked a trail from the map and set off. The views were stunning, but the trail markings were not that great. As we would later learn, this is pretty common for Newfoundland trails. We kept losing the path, wandering into muddy fields, struggling to find an exit, and getting frustrated trying to locate ourselves on the map. Eventually, we decided we’d had enough and turned back.
On the drive out, we stopped at Crow Head Lookout—a gorgeous spot with an incredible ocean view.
In the afternoon, we decided to take a short trip to Fogo Island. We drove to Port Albert and caught a ferry, which runs five times a day. Since the island is only about 25 km long, we figured we had enough time to explore and still make it back on the last ferry. The only concern was the return—if too many cars lined up, we might not make it back and would lose our hotel reservation. To play it safe, we planned to leave a bit earlier to avoid being last in line.
As soon as we arrived, it was clear that Fogo Island had a very different landscape from what we had seen so far in Newfoundland. The scenery was dramatic, with volcanic rock formations and short wind-swept trees. Driving through the island toward our destination—Brimstone Head—I couldn’t stop thinking about how much I loved what I was seeing. This was exactly the kind of rugged, untouched beauty I had come for.
Brimstone Head—one of the “Four Corners of the Flat Earth” . The trail to the top is short, just 2 km round trip, but it feels unlike any other hike. The volcanic terrain makes this place truly unique, completely different from anything else we had seen. When we reached the top, we were hypnotized by the view—endless open ocean stretching as far as the eye could see. We stood there for a long time, scanning the horizon, hoping to spot an iceberg or a whale’s tail. And I swear, for a brief moment, I think I actually saw one.
It was time to head back and catch our ferry, so we turned around. When we arrived at the terminal 40 minutes early, we didn’t see a single car in line. That was suspicious—and not a good sign.
Turns out, we had messed up the schedule. The next and final ferry wouldn’t arrive for another hour and a half. We anxiously waited, hoping to see other cars show up, because that would mean we weren’t alone, the ferry was indeed coming, and we’d make it back to the mainland. When vehicles finally started showing up, I won’t lie—it was a huge relief.
