As I mentioned before, Faial is not only known for its volcanic history and the iconic view of Pico Mountain, but also for the famous Horta Marina. It’s the main recreational harbor of the Azores and one of the busiest, most famous marinas in the world. Thanks to its location, Horta offers excellent shelter from winds in any direction, making it a crucial stopover for hundreds of yachts from different nationalities as they cross the North Atlantic or travel between the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. Every year, several international regattas take place here, many involving ocean-going cruiser yachts.
In Horta, it’s a tradition for sailors to paint their yacht’s name and crew on the sea wall. Though the origin of this tradition is unclear, it likely began when a crew member from a visiting yacht decided to leave a memento of their stay.
A superstition grew among locals that vessels not leaving a record would face serious accidents. To avoid that fate, every sailor brings out their brushes and paints, adding their own unique design. What started with a single painting has transformed the dark surface into a vibrant display of murals. Now drawings occupy the entire length of the walls around marine. New ones are painted over old paintings. Some are simple, but other are real master pieces.
Another attraction of Horta is Peter’s Café Sport – very charismatic café near the marine. It was open over than 100 years ago and welcomes tourists and sailors since then.
The atmosphere is cozy and steeped in history. It’s hard to tell how many visitors actual sailors versus regular tourists are. The walls and ceiling are decorated with flags from various countries.
Over the counter, handwritten ads from crew members seeking ships and from ship owners looking for crew. This place definitely worth a stop!
In the afternoon, we decided to take a leisurely stroll through Horta’s downtown to get a feel for the city. The streets were colorful and charming, with more of the familiar “cow print” popping up here and there.
The square at the municipal market is very charming. It has a pond with black and white swans. The pavement work reminded me a cascade of cherry blossoms.
Sitting on a red bench at the market square, I thought it would be a good idea to stroll up to Miradouro de Nossa Senhora da Conceição. The walk was supposed to be relatively short, about 1.5 km, and should have taken around 25 minutes in one direction.
The walk started off nice and flat. Along the way, I passed a charming church and the city tower.
As the landscape grew steeper, I encountered fewer people and more barking dogs. At one point, I began to question whether the viewpoint was worth the risk of being bitten by dogs, so I decided to turn back and descend to the market. Besides, we had already visited this viewpoint on our first day on Faial while heading to Capelinhos.
I would still recommend checking out the viewpoint, but it’s best to do so by car.
The pavement work in this city deserves its own chapter in the book. It features an even greater variety and skill than what I saw in Ponta Delgada.
We ended our day dining at Atlético Restaurant, just like the previous day. If you take a close look at the table, you’ll notice a treasure map (or maybe its a just a map of the island), and the chairs make you feel like medieval royalty. Aside from the unique decor, the food was the best of the trip. I highly recommend making a reservation in advance, as it’s always busy, with no empty tables inside or outside.
