At the end of August, we took a trip to the Czech Republic. I’d spent some time watching YouTube videos, reading travel guides, and making a list of all the things I wanted to see, eat, and experience. With that, I came up with an itinerary that we followed during our adventure. Here is our itinerary:
Day 1 -Prague
Day 2 – Prague
Day 3 – Prague
Day 4 – Karlovy Vary
Day 5 – Karlovy Vary (Loket)
Day 6 – Český Krumlov
Day 7 – Kutná Hora
Day 8 – Prague
Day 1: Prague
Our adventure in the Czech Republic began with a boat trip on the “Chertovka” route. The brochure promised a Venetian-style experience, with charming canals and picturesque views. However, 80% of the trip was actually spent on the Vltava River, circling around the famous
Karlov Bridge. There was only one short canal, but despite the deviation from our
expectations, the ride had its own charm and offered beautiful views of the city from the water.
After the boat trip, we decided to visit the oldest synagogue and the Jewish cemetery. To enter, we needed to purchase a general ticket, which costs around $30. The ticket is valid for two days and includes access not only to the synagogue and cemetery but also to other synagogues and historical sites in the Jewish Quarter.
Old-New synagogue is a Gothic place of Jewish worship, completed in 1270 & the legendary home of the Golem of Prague. According to the myth, in the late 16th century, Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel, also known as the Maharal of Prague, created a Golem, a clay figure brought to life through mystical rituals, to protect the Jewish community from anti-Semitic attacks. The Golem was said to be incredibly strong and carried out various tasks to defend the Jews.
However, as the story goes, the Golem became increasingly uncontrollable and dangerous. Fearing its destructive power, Rabbi Loew deactivated the Golem by removing the shem (a piece of parchment with holy inscriptions) from its mouth, which had given it life. The Golem’s lifeless body was then stored in the attic of the Old-New Synagogue. It is believed that the Golem still lies in the synagogue’s attic to this day.
Interesting story but not very exiting inside and no Golem seen on site.
After visiting the Old-New Synagogue, we made our way to the Old Jewish Cemetery. It was founded in the first half of the 15th century. The earliest tombstone dates back to 1439; the last burial took place 348 years later. Although the cemetery was expanded several times over the centuries, it was still not big enough to meet the needs of the Jewish Town. As space was scarce, bodies were buried on top of each other, with graves layered up to 10 deep.
One of the most famous figures buried here is Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel, the legendary creator of the Golem. His grave is the main attraction of the cemetery. People leave prayer notes on his tombstone. Even Michelle Obama left a prayer note there during her visit to Prague, and of course, we followed suit.
After our visit to the Old Jewish Cemetery, it was time for dinner. We decided to try Restaurant U Fleků. It is one of the oldest breweries in Prague (it was founded in 1499), and the atmosphere is something special there. Long tables set up in the garden, almost like a scene out of Hogwarts, where everyone gathers together for a lively meal.
Accordionist and trombonist provided the soundtrack for the evening. As we settled in, a friendly guy made the rounds, offering shots of medovina (honey wine) and Becherovka, a traditional Czech herbal liqueur. The beer was absolutely delicious. If you’re a beer lover, U Fleků is a must-visit.
The food was traditional Czech fare, pretty basic and the waitress could have been a bit friendlier. But even with the slightly brusque service, the atmosphere and experience made up for it. I’d definitely recommend stopping by U Fleků at least once if you’re in Prague.
After dinner , we took a leisurely walk down to the famous Karlov Bridge. As we reached the bridge, we were treated to an absolutely gorgeous sunset, the sky painted in rich hues of orange and pink. To top it off, a rainbow appeared, arching gracefully above the city. It felt like the perfect conclusion to the first day in Prague.
